C hirally Correct peels are important in Skin Correction because they will cause less damage and irritation at the same time that they stimulate the skin to regenerate in a less aggressive and faster way.
T o put it simply, chemicals cause stress simply because they are not natural to our skin or body. Chemicals are often not recognized or utilized properly by the skin or the body. An example would be Lactic acid. Synthetic Lactic acid contains both the D and the L molecule. The body (and skin) only recognizes the L form. Natural Lactic acid contains only the L form, which is the one the body can use. It’s obviously better to use the natural L form – why would you use the form in which one half of the molecules are ineffective? It is the same with vitamin E. Natural vitamin E is D-alpha Tocopherol. Synthetic vitamin E is DL alpha Tocopherol. The body can only use the D form. With the DL form you have half the molecules that are either worthless or can cause an allergic reaction. Artificial color and artificial fragrances (or flavors in food) are often not recognized by the body. This causes stress to our systems because the body doesn’t know how to react to these ingredients and often stores them in an organ or fat. Over years these chemicals can accumulate and reach a toxic level. In short, they pollute our bodies and/or our skin. How to identify Chiral Ingredients on the labels: When a product is Chirally Correct , it means that it contains only the molecules with the ability to give the desired results (by the way, always identified on the product label by either an L, for the left side of the molecule or D, for the right side, before each of the ingredients).
F irst recognized in the laboratory of the famous chemist Louis Pasteur in 1848. The word “Chirality” is derived from the Greek word chir, which means “hand”. It refers to a mirror image phenomenon frequently found in nature, e.g., human hands, eyes and feet are identical opposites, or mirror images, of each other.
T he human body is selective about which “part” of a given compound it can put to use and which is useless, or even harmful. Simply put, only the right shape works. With the use of Chiral Technology, a molecule can be separated; one half is able to form a perfect bond with the skin’s cells (or cell receptors), while leaving the other, ineffective half, behind. Using only the effective side of the molecule guarantees that each ingredient will have the greatest targeted benefits possible, and dramatically cuts down the potential for any adverse reactions. The human body recognizes natural, but does not recognize artificial chemicals. Some examples of why this Chiral Technology is so important:Thalidomide: the notorious drug that caused heartbreaking birth defects in the early 60′s. It was prescribed for morning sickness to pregnant women. When scientists finally resolved the drug in 1979, separating its two “hands”, they discovered that only the L form causes fetal deformities, while the D form and the racemic DL form both exhibited equal sedative activity. The drug had always been prescribed in its racemic form, which contained the L molecule responsible for birth defects. If they had chirally purified the drug, by removing the L form, Thalidomide may have been safe. Although recent studies indicate that this concept may not have been the final answer to the Thalidomide problem, (some believe it would not have made a difference) it is clear that a better understanding of Chiral Technology would have been significant. Bottom line this applies equally to compounds intended for internal use and to topicals like skin care. If a product does not take the Chirality of its active ingredients into consideration it cannot be effective on a highly evolved, complex biochemical organ like human skin, of which its very structure is Chiral.
To be truly effective, products and in this case Skin Care products must be Chirally Correct. Just as you cannot put your right hand into a left handed glove, your body will not accept a left handed compound to do the job a right handed one is supposed to do, and visa versa.
Chiral chemistry sets the rules that determine how or whether ingredients perform as desired or otherwise. While molecules of one hand are necessary to life (e.g. L-amino acids, certain D sugars, etc.) this selectivity means that the molecule of the opposite hand will usually exhibit different effects, ranging from useless to toxic, as in the case of L-ThalidomideChiral Technology forms the basis of our High Performance Skin Care treatments. Using only the effective side of the molecule guarantees that each ingredient has the greatest targeted benefits possible.
The result? Your skin will look healthy, soft, and feeling fresher than you’ve ever experienced before. Rarely will a client report sensitivities or allergic responses to these products.
Limonene (D and L difference):
Limonene is an active compound in citrus fruits. In nature, Limonene always has both left handed (L) and right handed (D) molecules. Natural Limonene is DL Limonene. Let’s compare the different properties & uses of these naturally occurring “twin-sided” molecules: D-Limonene (right-handed) is the version used for industrial cleaners & degreasers. It’s used as a tire solvent (for recycling tires), it’s known to cause allergic reactions, and it promotes mutations in human embryos & promotes free radicals. L-Limonene (left-handed) suppresses tumor growth (particularly melanoma) & fights free radicals. Would you prefer to have in your skin care – the natural Limonene with both the harsh D side molecule and therapeutic L molecule, or only the therapeutic L side? Those concerned about their skin would prefer only the L-Limonene in their products. Chiral technology makes it possible to give you a product that is better than natural because it separates the molecules allowing us to remove the undesirable side of the molecule and use only the desirable one. Indications: “L”-”left” molecule, “D” – “right” molecule
- L – Alpha Lecithinantioxidant, emollient, & antibacterial
- L – Arbutinmelanin inhibitor reduces spots, melasma, & hyperpigmentation
- L – Ascorbic Acid photo protective, collagen stimulating, & antioxidant
- L – Lactic Acid speeds skin’s metabolism, softens, exfoliates, & strengthens cell walls
- L – Retinol Apatented, uses benefits of retinoic acid(reduction of fine lines and acne) to penetrate without irritation
- D – Beta Glucosamine bolsters the skin’s ability to moisturize, strengthen, & defend itself
- EGF Epidermal Growth Factor stimulates new cell growth & repairs UV-damaged skin
- D-20 Heavy Waterreduces cellular stress, protects against bacteria, viruses, & radiation
- Spin Trap uses free radicals to feed cellular growth, to attain more youthful and healthy skin
- D – Alpha Tocopherolantioxidant, heals & repairs damaged tissues
- D – Beta Fructanfound in plants, helps skin to self-moisturize
C hemical peel involves applying a chemical solution to the skin to remove its outer layers. How much skin they remove and how deep they penetrate will depend on the type of peel used, its strength and how long it is left on. There are three types of peel: superficial, medium and deep. These have varying percentages of active ingredients and different PH levels. The percentage of a peel just indicates how much of the peeling agent is contained in the peel so a 15% glycolic acid peel has less glycolic acid than a 50% glycolic acid peel. It is a common misconception that if a peel has a high percentage it means it cannot be done in a beauty salon however although this is not true, there is a difference between peels you can have at the beauticians and those you can have in a medi-spa or clinic. What really matters when it comes to peels is their PH level. This indicates how deep the peel will penetrate into your skin and how much irritation you will get. The thing to remember is; the lower the PH, the deeper the peel. Anything with a PH of less than 2.5 should be done by a doctor or nurse and if it has a PH of 1 only a doctor or surgeon. Beauty therapists cannot legally do anything lower than a 2.5. Peels with a PH of 3 are what you would usually find in a beauty salon.
S uperficial or light peels are the gentlest type of peels available and one of the true ‘lunchtime’ aesthetic procedures. They only remove the top layer of the skin, known as the epidermis, and can give your skin and instantly brighter look as well as a smoother, more even texture. They can be used to minimise fine lines and wrinkles, sun damage, mild acne scarring, age spots and dry or flaking skin. They are usually made from alpha hydroxy or beta hydroxy acids, known as AHAs and BHAs and include glycolic acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid. Nowadays it is also common to use fruit enzymes and acids from natural sources such as pumpkins, cranberries and pineapples. There are now advanced peeling systems, which offer the kind of results you would expect from a medium depth peel but with the side effects of a superficial peel. These types of peels use active ingredients to penetrate and deliver anti-oxidants and vitamins deep into the skin encouraging the new cells to grow stronger and healthier. A course of between six and 10 treatments is usually recommended to achieve the best results. Superficial peels do not hurt, you only feel a slight tingling or stinging sensation, and have virtually no recovery time. You can be a little bit pink afterwards and may get some mild flaking of the skin but this can be disguised with make-up. With a superficial peel you would be able to return to work or go out straight afterwards and no one would know you had had the treatment done.
M edium depth peels give more dramatic results than superficial peels. Usually derived from TCA (trichloroacetic acid), they penetrate deeper in to the skin and can be used to treat sun damage, pigmentation and wrinkles. The downside of medium peels is that you will have a longer recovery and more side effects. You may also feel more discomfort during the treatment than you would with a superficial peel including burning and stinging, which can last for 30 minutes to an hour after treatment. You may want to hide yourself away for a few days following a medium peel as your face can become swollen, pink and itchy following treatment and you will get more ‘peeling’ of the skin than you would with a superficial peel. You can also get patches of brown and white skin on your face during the healing process and in rare cases you can get scarring from medium depth peels. Generally recovery takes around a week but your skin can be a little bit pink for up to six weeks afterwards.
D eep peels are the strongest type of chemical peel available and can achieve amazing results for sun damage, scarring and deep lines and wrinkles but be prepared to look quite scary after your treatment. They usually use carbolic acid (Phenol peels) or high strength TCA to penetrate the deeper layers, or dermal layers, of the skin. However this type of peel is painful and can take months to fully recover from. Your skin will be very red and feel almost like it is sun burnt after the procedure. Although you will heal in one to three weeks the redness can still be visible for months after the treatment but the results of the peel are long lasting. Be warned you could also feel quite unwell after a Phenol peel and may need to be sedated during the treatment. The side effects of deep peels can look quite horrific. Your whole face will be swollen for a couple of days and will then scab. You will also get a lot of peeling and your skin may be quite itchy. For some people it can take up to two weeks before they want to go out in public. The most common problem associated with deep peels is patches of white or bleached looking skin, known as hypopigmentation, which can be permanent. There is also a risk of scarring. Because of the risks associated with Phenol peels it is incredibly important you find an experienced dermatologist or plastic surgeon to carry out the treatment.